The return to Greece, four decades later

Growing up successful the bluish suburbs of Melbourne, I was friends with galore divers Australians — and, of course, galore were Greek Australians. My archetypal trip to Greece was successful the mid-eighties, arsenic a young, wide-eyed backpacker. I had a shot and loved Athens’s beauteous chaos. Nearly 40 years later, this clip with my wife, Robyn Peel, I returned for a period successful Greece.

Athens then and now

Athens is present a thriving, multicultural city, with astir signs successful English. As astir Athenians present speak English, and different languages. On my archetypal trip, English speakers were little common. With wide tourism, this was nary surprise. While globalisation has made English the “international language,” it hasn’t diminished the Greek peoples’ pridefulness successful Greece and its history. I saw the Greek emblem flying everywhere—not arsenic jingoism, but arsenic axenic pridefulness successful Hellenism. We started successful Athens, but stayed conscionable agelong capable for a swim, meal and a sleep earlier flying to Rhodos oregon Rhodes. Neither of us had been to Rhodos before—a beauteous spot with wonderful people.

Peter Redden is present canvassing a aboriginal of travel and holidays. Photo: Supplied

The land is person to Turkey, than mainland Greece, has been seen arsenic a strategic prize by each super powers passim antithetic periods of history. The Hospitaller Knights, successful 11th-century founded successful Jerusalem to assistance pilgrims, became a almighty crusading force, aboriginal known arsenic the Knights of Rhodes where they acceptable up hospitals for pilgrims and wounded crusaders. Rhodos then similar each of the Byzantium and Greece fell under the assemblage regularisation of the the Ottomans for 400 years, then the Venetians, then British, then Italians and British and yet astatine the extremity of World War II, backmost to Greece.

We explored the Old Town, visited the stunning Filermos Monastery (more tourists than monks, but still worth the trip), and wandered Butterfly Valley—a beauteous walk, though champion during butterfly season. We visited the sportfishing land of Symi and swam successful St George’s Bay. On our last nighttime successful Rhodos, a 6.8 magnitude earthquake brought everyone retired onto the streets—no 1 hurt, nary damage, seemingly a regular occurrence.

A balmy summertime evening successful Chaniá — Peter and Robyn Redden bask successful the Mediterranean glow. Photo: Supplied

Our formation to Crete was delayed circling supra Heraklion owed to different earthquake. I began to wonder if this itinerary was a bully idea. We headed to Chania and were impressed by the aged port, beauteous sunsets and warm hospitality. We took a motorcycle tour and learned astir the WWII atrocities by the Nazis successful Crete and Australia’s wartime connection. The Battle of Crete (20 May – 1 June 1941) saw Australian, British, New Zealand, Greek, and German forces clash successful the archetypal large airborne penetration of WWII, ending successful German victory, a British evacuation, and Australians near down who survived by joining and warring with Greek partisans during 4 years of occupation. A brutal wave of reprisals swept the island, with Nazi forces massacring civilians — including large women, children, and the aged — driven by a ruthless tendency for vengeance. Our bicycle tour and our walk done Imbros Gorge gave us accrued cognition and a vastly stronger transportation with the radical of Crete.

Robyn Peel and Peter Redden enjoyed their stay successful Greece – a clip retired of time. Photo: Supplied

Our usher worried astir over-tourism’s interaction and worked two jobs to get by. We walked to the Chania Archaeological Museum—great to visit a depository where thing seemed to person been stolen by the British. Our adjacent walk, the “easy one” done Imbros Gorge, reminded maine that flimsy runners were a mistake successful a spot erstwhile used by Cretan Resistance Fighters.

Off the well-ron tourist track successful the Peloponnese

We visited Sparta, including the Archaeological Site of the Acropolis and the Leonidas Monument. Cafés were buzzing with locals connected a Sunday. In Kalamata, we recovered a beauteous taverna with stunning nutrient and hospitality.We took a less-beaten way to the coastal village of Kakovatos via Olympia, where tourist crowds flocked to the archetypal Olympic Games site.

Imbros Gorge successful Crete tested Peter Redden’s dexterity. Photo: Supplied

The crowds vanished astatine lunch, and we continued to Kakovatos—a charming village with small planetary tourism but us. Our neighbour astatine the accommodation was English, having arrived for a vacation 14 years agone and ne'er left. After a mates of lazy days, we stopped astatine a work station edifice for breakfast—apologetically lone omelettes available, but it was delicious, arsenic was the coffee. No apology was needed.

Next, Nafplio—a stunning upland drive, filled with tourists, but still beautiful. We stopped successful Patras earlier heading to Lefkada to start our sailing trip astir the Ionian Islands. Sailing by day, swimming astatine secluded beaches, were astonishing experiences. Just a tip: don’t fto your meal companion bid “the champion Rose you have”— it was lovely, unlike the price.

Chania Archaeological Museum—great to visit a depository where thing seemed to person been stolen by the British, said Redden. Photo: Chania Archaeological Museum

Sailing the Ionian and a farewell to Athens

After “our” yacht, it was clip to rejoin the masses connected the ferry to Corfu. Corfu was arsenic I remembered, though it took a mates of days to callback the formation I’d wanted was a autobus thrust away. Here I saw the interaction of cruise ships—good for the economy, little so for visitors. From Corfu, we visited Saranda, Albania. No disrespect, but Saranda isn’t the Riviera, though we enjoyed ourselves and noted similarities to Greek Islands forty years ago.

All bully things end. We near Corfu for two nights successful bustling Athens, soaking up the vibrant atmosphere.

Greeks are justifiably arrogant of their power connected the world done history, philosophy, authorities and culture. I reflected connected however galore Australians are proud—or adjacent aware—of our unthinkable First Nations’ culture, the world’s oldest surviving civilization that exists here.

* Peter Redden has worked successful arts and lawsuit absorption and assemblage engagement for implicit 35 years. Having worked successful backstage and nationalist organisations, festivals, and large institutions, helium present spends a batch of his clip readying holidays.