A journey to Missolonghi – The sacred city, Lord Byron and beyond

Missolonghi is simply a sanction and a spot that excites anyone funny successful the past of modern Greece. It will beryllium everlastingly linked to the question of philhellenes who flocked to Greece successful support of its combat for independency from Ottoman rule. Lord Byron, the British philhellene who came to the town and would dice there during the war, is everlastingly connected to this beauteous town connected the seashore of the Ionian Sea.

Missolonghi of people is celebrated successful itself for its portion successful the Greek Revolution. Its citizens were 1 of the archetypal to emergence against Ottoman regularisation successful Western Greece, joining the uprising and securing their town successful May 1821 under the enactment of section notables similar Athanasios Razikotsikas, Panos Papaloukas and Christos Kapsalis. They were σύντομα joined by the klepht chieftain Dimitrios Makris and aboriginal Alexandros Mavrokordatos, 1 of the wide leaders of the revolution. The town’s strategic value laic successful its location, with entree to some the Peloponnese and the Ionian Sea. The town’s defenders would clasp retired against two Ottoman sieges, yet succumbing to the Ottoman forces successful April 1826 aft a year-long siege. The defenders and residents attempted withdrawal from the town was followed by a massacre, very fewer surviving. Lord Byron himself died astatine Missolonghi successful 1824 earlier the autumn of the town. For the bravery of its citizens the town was granted the honorary title of Hiera Polis oregon Sacred City, a unique honour successful Greece.

Dancing and hospitality astatine Persephone’s Restaurant, Missolonghi.

As you get successful the town nary uncertainty the archetypal happening that strikes you are the remains of the antiaircraft walls with their cannons mounted connected the parapets and the large entranceway gross from the days of the siege of the city. Beyond these defences is the beauteous Garden of Heroes successful which stand galore memorials dedicated to the various heroes of the revolution, including idiosyncratic philhellenes and contingents such arsenic those who came from Poland, Italy and Switzerland – on with galore to the Greek fighters and civilians who took portion successful the defence of the town successful 1821-26. The cardinal memorial is that to Lord Byron.

Women brackish workers, 1958, the Missolonghi Salt Museum.

My bully person Dr Spiridoula Demetriou had recommended that we visit the two main museums to the Greek gyration and Lord Byron that are located within the town itself. The archetypal is the History and Art Museum. This beauteous aged renovated gathering stands connected the main square of the town. Its galore rooms and two floors incorporate galore items of archetypal memorabilia and reproductions telling the story of Missolonghi. While these are principally acrophobic with the gyration (including swords and muskets from the epoch arsenic well arsenic a large ornate processional canopy dedicated to the representation of the massacre of 1826), I was peculiarly impressed successful viewing the museums representation of the British philhellene and naval serviceman Frank Abney Hastings who died pursuing an effort to liberate the town successful May 1828.

Coloured lion-headed water spout, the Xenokrateion Archaeological Museum.

The Lord Byron and Philhellene Museum and International Research Centre is located connected the outskirts of the town, astir 500 metres from the harbour and adjacent the coast. It is easy identified by the awesome Byron statue which stands adjacent the building. Run by the section Byron Society, the caller gathering is modelled connected Byron’s past residence successful the town which nary longer exists. The depository is location to an awesome imperishable accumulation entitled “Byron and Greece”, telling the story of Lord Byron and the gyration successful a bid of displays crossed a fig of rooms connected the archetypal floor. The accumulation opened to the nationalist successful April past year connected the bicentenary of his death.

One of the cannons connected the antiaircraft walls of Missolonghi, Garden of Heroes.

The accumulation opens with a timeline of the cardinal events of Byron’s life, followed by his relation successful the European philhellenic movement, his accomplishment and portion successful the gyration successful Missolonghi and his death. A further conception details Byron’s power connected the Romantic Movement, his recognition with Greece, some of the cardinal artefacts of Byron’s (such arsenic his helmet, slippers and run bed) and subsequent commemorations of his life. Many of the archetypal worldly connected show – artworks, weapons and documents etc- person been sourced from galore archives successful Greece and the United Kingdom. A probe centre is located connected the 2nd level and has an extended room with large views crossed the lagoon. I was peculiarly impressed by the postulation of important documents connected display. The depository hosts various taste events passim the year which are advertised connected its website. This depository is simply a indispensable for each funny successful the topic.

Entrance to Missolonghi’s History and Art Museum.

But Missolonghi offers much to the visitor than a deeper appreciation of Lord Bryon, the philhellenes and the Greek revolution. Wandering astir the cardinal town, not acold from the main square we came upon the Xenokrateion Archaeological Museum, an instauration of the Greek Ministry of Culture. And what a find! The Museum is comparatively new, having been inaugurated successful 2021. It is housed successful a beautifully renovated precocious 19th period neoclassical gathering which operated arsenic the Municipal Girl’s School done the donation of Constantinos Xenocratis, a large benefactor from Sidirochori successful Eastern Thrace. As you participate the Museum we were impressed by the expansive staircase starring to the precocious floors.

Part of the Byron and Greece accumulation with Byron’s existent run furniture astatine left, Byron Museum and Research Centre.

The Museum houses implicit 1,200 objects, arranged chronologically and by location, telling the story of the Aitoloakarnania portion from prehistoric to precocious Roman times (from 100,000 BCE to the 3rd period CE). We work that galore of the artefacts connected show were discovered arsenic a effect of caller infrastructure works crossed the region, including excavations for caller highways and bridges, such arsenic the caller Ionia-Odos road – a reminder that when you excavation successful a spot similar Greece you request to beryllium very careful, past beckons. It is so reassuring that modern Greece treasures its agelong past with examples similar the instauration of this caller Museum and it’s astonishing exhibits.

The 3rd period BCE clay sculpture of a pistillate deity from Calydon, the Xenokrateion Archaeological Museum.

Amongst the usual archaeological displays this Museum includes striking figures with their archetypal colours still evident, such arsenic the waterspout framed arsenic the caput of a lion from a 550BCE Temple of Apollo successful vivid colour. This reminds maine of pre-Columbian epoch stonework from Latin America. We are besides struck by an astonishing astir beingness size 3rd period BCE clay fig of a pistillate deity from the metropolis of Calydon. And then there are items of mundane use similar the Hellenistic epoch bronze grater.

The artefacts are displayed to tell the past of the galore past and classical-era settlements of the portion – such arsenic Calydon (a large metropolis successful Ancient times, situated connected the west slope of the Evinos river), Alikyrna (near modern time Hilia Spitia) and Pleuron (located successful the mountains supra the lagoon, this metropolis is mentioned Homer arsenic a metropolis that supplied ships for the Trojan war) – from settlement, to the instauration of wealth, entree to rivers and the oversea arsenic well arsenic to rivalries and war. The displays are state of the art, informative, bilingual and casual to follow, crossed the bid of show rooms.

Lord Byron’s awesome memorial successful the centre of the Garden of Heroes.

All of this is brought together successful an astonishing 10-minute video documentary presumption shown to visitors, entitled Acheloos, the lord of each rivers. This is simply a unique combination, marrying the geology and earthy situation of the portion with the colony of its people, interpreting some mythological fable and archaeological and written evidence. I person ne'er seen such a video synthesis. Truly unique.

Another stop connected your visit to the metropolis is the celebrated Salt Museum. Don’t beryllium fooled by the title, this is simply a very absorbing museum, featuring images and stories of the mediocre workers who worked successful often terrible conditions to bring this indispensable constituent from the oversea to the table. Also connected show are cannonballs from the war of independency retrieved from the sea.

Jim Claven (right) with Vicki Kyritsis with some of the Byron and Greece exhibition, Byron Museum and Research Centre.

Having enjoyed a afloat time touring we needed some relaxation. And what amended spot successful the metropolis than the Persephone Restaurant. On the proposal of the History and Art Museum, we recovered 1 of the champion eateries successful Greece, situated conscionable disconnected the main metropolis square. Tucked distant down a side-street, present is this thriving and engaged restaurant, its effusive proprietor darting betwixt tables offering fantabulous food. We savoured the beef with lemon, pastitso, zucchini fritters and beetroot with feta salad, washed down with my favourite section brew Mamos.

But the champion portion of our stay present was that galore of the different customers were successful information singers, portion of a foundation choir called Music Paths from Limassol Cyprus who were performing locally and decided connected a repast astatine Persephone’s. Soon we were surrounded by the sound of singing and dancing, acquainted rebetiko songs filling the restaurant. One of the unplanned joys of travel.

Lord Byron print, History and Art Museum.

So when you are tasting some salt, thinking astir Greece’s past past oregon speechmaking astir Lord Byron and the Philhellene’s, think of a stop successful Missolonghi connected your adjacent trip to Greece to take successful its astonishing museums and hospitality. And much importantly if you are travelling successful Western Greece – whether you are crossing the Trikoupis Bridge from Patras, having tasted the delights of Nafpaktos oregon are connected your way to Lefkada oregon Ioannina – stop and take successful what this beauteous small coastal town has to offer. Like maine I’m sure you want regret it.

Greek stamp commemorating the centenary of Lord Byron’s decease successful 1924.

*Jim Claven OAM is simply a trained historian, freelance writer and published writer who has researched and written astir galore of the links betwixt Australia and Greece, including a bid of articles published successful Neos Kosmos connected aspects of the Greek War of Independence. He has besides written a fig of books connected the Hellenic nexus to Anzac arsenic well arsenic working arsenic the Associate Producer of the documentary Anzac The Greek Chapter. He thanks Dr Spiridoula Demetriou, Natasha and Themi Rodikis and Rosa Florou of the Missolonghi Byron Society for their assistance during his visit to Missolonghi. He tin beryllium contacted via email – [email protected].